100% Charge Range Drop

[Craig Marston]

Received my Skoda Enyaq estate 210kw 85x Sportline plus 82kwh 4x4 auto, 1 month ago. My first new car- so pleased with it.

Received the car with a range of 325 miles.
I've since charged it to 80%.
Having done 1000 miles, last night I charged 100% for the first time and the range was exactly 300 miles.

Should I be concerned that the battery range has dropped 25 miles after only 1 month.

Look forward to hearing anyone else experience.

Cheers

Craig.

[Dav00]

no, the car is simply predicting range based on (your own) real-life historical driving and consuption data, that predicted range goes up and down

[Pea]

No concern. The range is relative to your recent average consumption miles/kWh.
Try lowering the consuption to low 3,8miles/kWh and the range will return to this value.

[fatman]

No concern. The range is relative to your recent average consumption miles/kWh.
Try lowering the consuption to low 3,8miles/kWh and the range will return to this value.

Try lowering the consuption to low 3,8miles/kWh .......i also have 3.5kwh.....please tell how can bring to 3.7 or 8

[Goaty]

No concern. The range is relative to your recent average consumption miles/kWh.
Try lowering the consuption to low 3,8miles/kWh and the range will return to this value.

Try lowering the consuption to low 3,8miles/kWh .......i also have 3.5kwh.....please tell how can bring to 3.7 or 8

A few basic tips:
Accelerate more gently.
Max. 65~70 mph on the motorway (UK)
Heating set to around 20C max. in winter and cooling maybe 18C in summer.
Coast (safely) where possible. D mode instead of B mode.

Note that lots of short journeys are probably likely to be the least efficient, especially in Winter as the car puts a lot of emphasis on heating the cabin and the battery in those first few dozen miles.

[ChangoMutney]

No concern. The range is relative to your recent average consumption miles/kWh.
Try lowering the consuption to low 3,8miles/kWh and the range will return to this value.

Try lowering the consuption to low 3,8miles/kWh .......i also have 3.5kwh.....please tell how can bring to 3.7 or 8

To improve driving efficiency, you need to drive with a very light right foot. Everyone enjoys the acceleration of electric cars but if you accelerate and brake hard, your range will be much lower, just like a petrol or diesel car. Also if you drive in hilly areas, or wet roads, against a strong headwind, your efficiency will be much lower (just like a petrol/diesel car). Our IV80 has a WLPT of 330, but in the summer on long journeys, I can get 360 miles. In the winter it drops to 270 sometimes 260. You'll get used to it. In a petrol/diesel car, the range was never an issue because you just fill up a day or two sooner but it still took 5 minutes. Now we pay with time, which you tend to notice more unless you charge overnight.

[fatman]

thanks ......good advice i will try to take advantage of this and report back i 6 week ..

[CrowSysE243]

Avoiding excessive acceleration and deceleration and high speeds makes a big contribution to improving economy as reported in this and many other threads. The biggest difference that I notice between the EVs and ICE vehicles is that in slow/heavy traffic the EV consumption/range improves while on my ICE cars it tended to degrade. Thanks to the M25/A3 roadworks half way to work near Gatwick, on a dry day I am currently getting near 6 miles/kWh by the time I get to M25 J10 but typically just under 5 on the whole journey. Whether B or D is best depends on driving style. I get best performance with B but I know people who find D better. If you have steering wheel and/or seat heating this can provide comfort with a lower cabin temperature in winter helping improve economy/range. During last winter, in the south of England and mostly on journeys over 7 miles the 100% range rarely dropped below 290 for our iV80. With the lower temperature and more hilly roads it did a bit worse in Northern Ireland. In torrential rain or strong winds the range/efficiency degrated around 10% after reducing speed to match the conditions. Under ideal conditions in the summer we have seen 100% ranges around 400, with sum of distance since charge and remaining predicted range gradually increasing while driving conditions increased, but we did not see this until we had worked out how best to set air conditioning and other settings to achieve the conditions we wanted. Using fully automatic climate control was not as efficient. Although refueling takes longer than on ICE vehicles, on long journeys we already took a break every 2 to 3 hours and the car has sufficient range to cover this, even in winter, so we leave the car on charge whenever we stop and so far have not seen any increase in overall journey time, for journeys up to about 460 miles in a day. On our normal routes the charging infrastructure has improved so the main change is that we have to go and move the car when it achieves the required level of charge and we are not ready to move on.

Moving from ICE to EV does incur a bit more learning how to make the best of the car than staying EV, but it is really in the detail. The basic principles are the same. Once you have developed your own prefered method of driving the car you are likely to see a fairly stable range prediction with predictable variation with the driving and weather conditions.

[fatman]

Avoiding excessive acceleration and deceleration and high speeds makes a big contribution to improving economy as reported in this and many other threads. The biggest difference that I notice between the EVs and ICE vehicles is that in slow/heavy traffic the EV consumption/range improves while on my ICE cars it tended to degrade. Thanks to the M25/A3 roadworks half way to work near Gatwick, on a dry day I am currently getting near 6 miles/kWh by the time I get to M25 J10 but typically just under 5 on the whole journey. Whether B or D is best depends on driving style. I get best performance with B but I know people who find D better. If you have steering wheel and/or seat heating this can provide comfort with a lower cabin temperature in winter helping improve economy/range. During last winter, in the south of England and mostly on journeys over 7 miles the 100% range rarely dropped below 290 for our iV80. With the lower temperature and more hilly roads it did a bit worse in Northern Ireland. In torrential rain or strong winds the range/efficiency degrated around 10% after reducing speed to match the conditions. Under ideal conditions in the summer we have seen 100% ranges around 400, with sum of distance since charge and remaining predicted range gradually increasing while driving conditions increased, but we did not see this until we had worked out how best to set air conditioning and other settings to achieve the conditions we wanted. Using fully automatic climate control was not as efficient. Although refueling takes longer than on ICE vehicles, on long journeys we already took a break every 2 to 3 hours and the car has sufficient range to cover this, even in winter, so we leave the car on charge whenever we stop and so far have not seen any increase in overall journey time, for journeys up to about 460 miles in a day. On our normal routes the charging infrastructure has improved so the main change is that we have to go and move the car when it achieves the required level of charge and we are not ready to move on.

Moving from ICE to EV does incur a bit more learning how to make the best of the car than staying EV, but it is really in the detail. The basic principles are the same. Once you have developed your own prefered method of driving the car you are likely to see a fairly stable range prediction with predictable variation with the driving and weather conditions.

may be Heat pump is key to this ?

[CrowSysE243]

The heatpump seems to help in winter but the principles are the same without it. Our Kona behaves in the same way, other than a higher range drop in winter. Despite its slightly lower WLTP range we were able to perform in the same journeys as we now do in the Enyaq because it has more space and is more comfortable. At this time of the year the heatpump makes no difference. In the winter using cabin heating reduces range more in the Kona, without heatpump, than in the Enyaq with it. I think it will be a long time before we recover the cost of the heatpump and lack of it would not have caused us to have to change our journeys and driving style, but it does give more margin and we do tend to have the cabin warmer in the Enyaq than the Kona to please some passengers.