HOWTO replace the charge flap

[RichR]

Because it sticks out, potentially for hours whilst charging, a snapped off charge flap isn’t uncommon on many EVs. This is how to replace it on the Enyaq if the hinge gets broken.

The charge flap assembly is in two parts, the painted rectangular flap and the black plastic unit that surrounds the socket and includes the hinge and bit the flap fits into.

Time needed: about 15 minutes
Cost: £52.72 (for the black plastic unit)
Part number: 5LG. 809.702 (edited 15/07/2024)
Tools needed: small flat blade screwdriver, Torx T15 driver

1. The unit is held to the bodywork by four plastic clips. If you look at the corners you’ll see an indentation about 4mm x 2mm. Punch through these with a small screwdriver. Have a look at your new part and you’ll see the clips behind these blanked off holes.
2. Angle the screwdriver so that you can push the clip down whilst gently pulling the unit. The clips are easy to break so you may end up having to rip them off with the screwdriver.
3. The end furthest from the hinge needs to come out first (as the hinge sits behind the bodywork). So release (or break) all four clips then gently pull at the lock end until it comes free.
4. As you pull the unit out, release the rubber seal from round the socket. You can use a small screwdriver to free it.
5. Pull the unit to left and out of the car. Once it’s loose, disconnect the drain hose and wiring plus to the lock and LED module. Also unclip the CCS cover rubber strap if you haven’t already.
6. Remove the unit and take to a bench with your new unit.
7. With a Torx driver remove the lock and LED modules and transfer them to the new unit. Also transfer the plastic post the CCS rubber strap fits on. There are two tiny clips on the reverse you can press in to release it.
8. To remove the body coloured flap from the remains of the outer part, lift the tab by the socket cover and slide it off.
9. Slide the flap onto the new unit. Now you’re ready to fit it back on the car.
10. Push the drain tube back into the rubber grommet and plug the wiring to the modules back in.
11. Slide the hinge end under the bodywork and line up the clips with the holes. Then push the unit into place.
12. Finally push the rubber seal back under the lip of the socket and reattach the CCS cover rubber strap.

[riki1]

Thank you very much, it is very informative and useful.

[Stunts]

For information purposes, the flap part number is not 5L9, it's 5LG.809.702.

[RichR]

That may have changed since I wrote the article (I double checked what’s on the invoice) - possibly they’ve modified the design a few times to reduce the stuck lock issues

[Dorsetandy]

I have been told several times by my Dealer that if a part is revised the part number contains an “R” - they were able to check the state of my puddle lights recently, following another failure - it was the non “R” light that had failed for the second time. This suggests the fuel flap module has not been revised - possibly a mistyping of the part number on your invoice RichR? Pure conjecture on my part, but I like to ask my Dealer when a part is replaced under warranty whether it has been revised or likely to fail again if it is simply an identical replacement part.

[RichR]

It is very possible it’s incorrect on the invoice as was typed in the dealership. I’ll check on the parts diagram and amend the post.

Interesting that nobody noticed this in the two years since I posted it though - people must have been more lucky in not breaking their flaps

[Aragorn]

You can actually see 5LG on the photo of the new flap

VAG part numbers do get letters added to the end when they are revised (not neccesarily R, could be anything), however they also add letters for different versions of the same part. For instance the brake caliper might have an A and a B version for different sizes of brake system.

[RichR]

Good spot I've corrected the first post now.

I am encouraged that people have actually looked at the guide though, two years after I did it. I'm hoping that as Enyaqs start to leave their warranty period we might get more guides where people have done work themselves appearing. I fully intend to be on here for the next 4-5 years at least (though will be changing Enyaqs at the end of next year), so happy to help develop a consistent guide style if people want it. I used to manage all the guides we had in the Renault 5 GT Turbo Owner's Club (erk, 20 years ago), as we had quite a lot of them. I suspect they still exist, and those were from the days before smartphone cameras, so took a lot more effort to create

[Aragorn]

Yeah, there has been a shift over the last maybe 5 years away from car forums towards facebook groups and the like, and i think the big losers is the solid repository of peer to peer information and guides like these. The Audi forums i used back in the day were great, there was loads of info and guides on all the common issues readily availalbe and even sticky threads with links etc. The facebook groups on the other hand are useless, as the whole platform just isnt really geared towards sharing information, and instead its just daft posts and pics.

[Stunts]

Thanks for the info, I bludgeoned the flap off my wife's car as it kept being troublesome. I disconnected the locking solenoid connector with no apparent adverse effects. I had to do this as 8V0862159A is in backorder with no ETA in sight Very poor that a crappy little part completely disables the whole car. Not happy. At least we can now charge it.....